QuickStart 2000 - Magazine Reviews
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American Iron Magazine, August 2006
Hidden & Helpful - QuickStart 2000 Electronic Ignition
Tech by Buzz Kanter
Over the years, an awful lot of terrible products that were supposed to make bikes run better, smoother, or longer have ended up in the junk pile with all the other snake oils and gimmicks. This ignition, as simple as it sounds, is not one of those items. It does what it is supposed to do, and just about anyone can install it with a few basic hand tools.
Never heard of the QuickStart 2000 or EBeyond 2000? If you ride an older 6- or 12-volt Harley (running a points system in a distributor), then you'll want to. The creator of the ignition, Ed Fralick, an artist and old-fashioned mechanical tinkerer, makes some heady claims in his brochure: "Bring Your Antique Harley Back to Life:... Works on 6- and 12-volt systems... Easy two-wire hook up... Starts every time and fires every time... Fits your original stock distributor!" And he's right.
My friend (and mechanic) Pete Orlando, who knows more about older Harleys than almost anyone I know, is very skeptical whenever I mention new technology for old Harleys. He's tried almost everything over the years, usually because customers insist on it. And, in most cases, they eventually go back to stock. So, when I first mentioned this ignition, Pete told me to forget it. But a few months ago, I got him to try one, and he was impressed- so impressed that when I mentioned the possibility of installing one on my 1965 Panhead (our most recent rustoration project bike), he agreed it would be a worthwhile improvement.
The QuickStart 2000 is simple. It drops into the stock location using stock hardware with only two wires, one to the stock coil and one to the battery with no modifications at all. The QuickStart's inexpensive ($145 for the application, and others for Harleys from 1930 and later), and invisible (it's all hidden under the stock distributor cap).
After the install, which took less than an hour, the bike started easier and seem to run a bit stronger on my 60-mile first outing. I look forward to a long-term review of this ignition. Details to follow in a few months.
Simple, Smart & Invisible Upgrades
My goal was to keep this bike looking as stock as possible, but, because this is a rider, I am always looking for reliable ways for my '65 Pan to run stronger and longer. The three areas I have found that do work (and that aren't obvious) are installing the ignition, as we just detailed on these pages, replacing the stock mesh air filter with a more efficient K&N unit, and replacing the old float with a modern brass one. The K&N filter will probably outlast the bike and do a great job keeping out all the micro particles that, if allowed into the carb, will damage the engine. It's a snap to install and can easily be cleaned and reinstalled in minutes. The brass float is necessary because more additives are showing up at the gas pump. Many of these additives will eat into or swell the stock floats, causing them to stick or jam in the float bowls. This will result in either a lack of fuel or overflow, depending upon where the additives strike. You can replace the stock float with a brass one, as outlined in the factory manual, but be aware that the brass model has a different weight than the stock one, so it needs to be set at 5/16" measured from the edge of the float bowl (a stock float is set at 1/4").
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The Horse Magazine, August 2003
Quickstart
2000 - Dump the Points for an Electronic Ignition
Product Review, by Stevenson's Cycle
It was a typically cold, freezing, morning in Michigan.
Steve asked Mike, one of his employees, to bring his Sportster in
to be used as a test bed for a new product. Mike's 1969 Sportster
was the perfect guinea pig for the QuickStart 2000 electronic ignition,
which replaces the single contact point system. Why was it perfect?
Because it was Mike's, and if something went terribly wrong, then
who'd care?
Steve
picked this unit up in Cincinnati and thought it would make an interesting
tech article. The electronic unit fits right in where the points
go, with no additional boxes or hardware. You retain the distributor
and when it's installed, you can't tell that you've installed an
electronic ignition. So, Steve thought it was worth checking out...(*One
thing I'd like to add: When we do a test, there are no preconceived
notions or deals made with the manufacturer. The product is tested
and the results presented to you the way they turned out-good or
bad.)
Basic Installation
First, As always, disconnect the battery. Then remove the air cleaner
so you can get to the distributor. Remove the dust cover and remove
the old points and condenser, then remove the timer coil wire from
both the distributor and coil.
Feed the new wires through the same hole that the
old system used. Mount the new unit, using the existing mounting
holes; a very quick and simple swap out. When you place the rotor
back on, us a drop of silicone to ensure it's secure.
Connect the red wire to the same side of the coil
that the power switch is on (the positive side). Do not yet connect
the black wire yet.
Timing is Everything
Remove the spark plugs and the timing hole plug on the crankcase.
As you bump the engine to get it to top dead center, be careful.
If you intend on getting a picture of the timing mark on the fly
wheel, make sure you inform the engine-kicker-over guy on the other
side when you're aiming your camera at the hole, or you may end
up with oil all over your camera.
Make sure that you're on the compression stroke on
the front cylinder and line the timing mark up through the inspection
hole. (Check out the "Pushrod Adjustment" feature in this
issue if you need to know how to do that.)
Now you're ready to adjust the distributor. You can
use a test light to perform a static test, but we found that it
worked just as well to hold the mechanical advance weights open
and line up the white marks by eye. Once you have everything lined
up, tighten everything down, secure the black wire to the coil and
reinstall the dust cover and air cleaner. Don't forget the plugs
and timing plug hole. Oh, and don't forget to reconnect the battery.
Total time: About 50 minutes elapsed time but included
in that time was a quick oil change for another customer and some
counter work, so the actual time, performed in a shop, is much less.
The Results
Just prior to the installation, Mike had a hard time starting the
bike. Even with new points and everything adjusted correctly, starting
was a bitch. The first crank with the new electronic ignition and
it fired it right up. Mike said it has never started as effortlessly
as it does now, and the performance is unbelievable.
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